A Review of The NYX Knickers Pdf Pattern by Made for Mermaids.
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It seems that a lot of underwear pdf patterns were released this February. I tried and tested The Sum It Up Bra by George + Ginger (See MY REVIEW here) and I've also purchased, but not made yet, The Teyla Bralette by Rad Patterns. Other releases have been The Bella Cami and Briefs by Designer Stitch and The Nyx Knickers by Made for Mermaids.
The Nyx appealed to me because of the cross straps at the back - something a bit different to sew - I usually avoid anything that looks like I'll have to use different stitches on my sewing machine so I knew this would be a challenge!
The Nyx has 3 rise options: low, mid or high and 2 dip options: low or high. I chose to make the high rise with high dip initially but all my other pairs were made with a low dip.
Nyx is a sexy cross-back cheeky knicker. The back has fun and sassy criss-cross straps between the dip.
Source: Made for Mermaids
The Nyx are drafted for medium weight fabrics with at least 50% stretch such as Cotton Lycra, Cotton Jersey, Stretch Mesh or Stretch Lace. I used various bits of left over stretch fabric that I could find - they are a great scrap buster. The Nyx pdf pattern has a hip size range of 34" - 64" and the pdf is layered and comes in A4, US Letter, A0 and Projector versions.
You will need suitable trimmings to finish all the raw edges and to create the cross design. Recommended trimmings include:
Fold Over Elastic (FOE) - ⅞"
Stretch Lace - under ½"
Picot - ⅜".
I used ⅜" stretch elastic purchased from Amazon - it came as a 50 yard bundle (approximately 45 metres) and I worked out that I could make around 16 pairs of pants with that quantity.
With some clever construction the crotch seams at the gusset are fully enclosed providing comfort and a really neat finish! The instructions also include tips for sewing different trimmings, cuttings and sewing delicate fabrics as well as a fitting guide.
The Nyx Knickers don't use much fabric so I really used this opportunity to experiment with the stitches used, the order of construction and fit until I was happy that I had a process that gave me the best results. In the YouTube video a zigzag stitch is used throughout. I experimented with the settings on my machine and although sewing with a standard zigzag was quicker and used less thread the triple zigzag (stretch stitch) gave better results and was stronger. I did try using my serger with the jersey fabrics for the side seams but found the results too bulky.
I remembered that I had some stretch lace in my stash purchased from Minerva.com. I've never used this fabric before and viewed it as quite intimidating but thought this would be the perfect opportunity to give it a try. It was quite challenging to work with but the trim applied nicely using my triple zigzag stitch and the results seem quite sturdy. The straight seams looked messy after sewing because the lace had an uneven, raggy finish when cut so I did serge them and then topstitch. Another challenge was pressing - fortunately I did experiment with scrap fabric and found that the iron melted this lace so I had to carefully press with greaseproof paper protecting my main fabric.
A guide is given for the length of the cross straps at the back but I found them to be much too long. I got a better fit by simply laying The Nyx out flat and positioning then cutting the straps. You can experiment with different strap layouts and there are lots of variations shown on the listings page.
In the pdf instructions you add your elastic trim to the legs and then sew up the side seams. I didn't like this - I sewed the side seams up first and then added the elastic trim in 'the round' to the legs. I think this gives a much neater finish and takes away some bulk from the side seams.
After making two pairs of Nyx Knickers I could see where I wanted to make small adjustments to improve the fit. I scooped ½" out of the legs and added 1" height at the waist. These are easy changes to make - you just have to remember to adjust the back pieces by the same amount.
I have to say I really enjoyed making my Nyx Knickers - they take up so little fabric - making them a great scrap buster. They are really comfortable too! I've worn all my Nyx and washed and even tumble dried them to check the durability and so far they have held together well!