Creating a Long Length Myosotis Dress with Bishop Sleeves.
The Myosotis Dress by Deer & Doe has been a favourite of mine for a while and I've already made three versions. Its an oversized shirtdress with inseam pockets - I prefer Version A which has sleeve ruffles and a tiered skirt. I blogged about the pattern here.
Recommended fabrics are chambray, rayon twill, batiste, double-gauze and lightweight cotton sateen. I have had some brushed cotton in my stash for some time - purchased in the remnants section in a fabric shop in Cyprus that has a very autumnal pattern which I thought would be lovely as a Myosotis Dress. I felt that I would like to make a long-length dress with billowy sleeves and The Myosotis Dress was a perfect shape to start with.
I have edited the pdf paper pattern of The Myosotis Dress Bodice to fit previously (details here) and had no reason to change the styling. As with my previous versions I chose to sew buttons on to the front placket but no button holes as the bodice is oversized and fits over my head without the need for fastenings.
I made the skirt from Version B of The Myosotis Dress which has no ruffles and goes down to the knees and added the skirt ruffle from Version A to the bottom of it creating a 3/4 length skirt.
The sleeves of The Myosotis Dress are short in both Version A and B so I knew that I would have to lengthen the pattern - I used a sleeve from another pattern as a guide for length. I also wanted to make the sleeve wider creating a Bishop Sleeve style. To do this I traced the sleeve pattern piece and marked a centre line and two parallel lines either side. I then splayed the paper out evenly by 2 inches and retraced the pattern.
Construction of The Myosotis Dress is fairly straight forward with the placket and collar being the only tricky part - I find it helpful to mark out my sewing lines to keep things neat and accurate. I did find that I had to ease the sleeves into the armholes which is not mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps I'd inadvertently changed the sleeve head shape when splaying the pattern.
Easing sleeves in is a great little trick when you are panicking and thinking that your sleeves are too big for your arm hole opening. Mark a spot 4 inches either side of the centre of your sleeve head. Sew a gathering stitch between the two marks. Pin your sleeve head into place and you will find that if you gently manipulate the fabric that you can make it fit in neatly without any gathering or pleats remaining after you sew the seams together.
I opted to add an easy elastic cuff to the sleeves of The Myosotis Dress. I measured my elastic so that it was comfortable on my wrist and would go over my hands easily. This was 7 inches to which I added 1 inch for seam allowance. I created a channel at the bottom of the sleeves - leaving an opening and threaded the elastic through with a safety pin making sure it didn't twist. I sewed the ends of the elastic together with a zigzag stitch and then sewed the channel closed.
I feel that I didn't really get the 'Bishop Sleeve' effect - I should have splayed the pattern pieces out a lot more to get more drama but overall I am happy with my new long-length Myosotis Dress and will enjoy wearing it in the Autumn/Winter Seasons.