Using a FREE Jersey Dress PDF Pattern to make a Fake Skirt Dress.
I'm currently making my Autumn/Winter wardrobe. The type of outfit I find most comfortable is a throw on Dress or Tunic worn over tights, leggings or skinny jeans. I've had this black knit fabric for a while - it has a textured finish but is quite structured with not a huge amount of stretch. I had originally bought it to make a pair of shorts but decided it wasn't quite stretchy enough. I only asked for a metre from Loris Textiles but as always he generously cut it and I ended up with 1.5 metres. This gave me enough fabric for a tunic length sweater but I thought I could add interest by adding a 'fake skirt'. I've had this black and red silky fabric in my stash for a while now (picked up from the remnants in George's Material Shop) and thought it would make a great addition.
I started with The Jersey Dress - a FREE PDF pattern from Peppermint Magazine. I have made The Jersey Dress twice in the past and its the perfect comfy oversized dress to wear in the colder months. Read My Review Here.
To begin with I shortened the front and back pattern pieces by removing 24cm and omitted the pockets. Construction of The Jersey Dress is very straightforward - especially as it has Raglan Sleeves. You sew the sleeves to the front piece and then to the back, sew up the side seams and then add your neck binding and sleeve cuffs. There is the option to add a band to the hem which looks really cute on the full length Jersey Dress but which I omitted for the option I wanted to make. At this stage I left the hem unfinished.
I tried on my shortened Jersey Dress and calculated that if I turned it up by 2.5 cm at the hem I would want the 'fake skirt' to have a 18cm drop. I added 2 cm for hemming and 2.5 cm for sewing the skirt to the body. Therefore, I cut two fabric widths measuring 22.5 cm long (my fabric width was 112 cm but this varies so you need to check if you will gain enough gather).
I simply gathered each panel until it matched the front or back of the shortened Jersey Dress. For me this was 64 cm. I gather by sewing along the top edge of my fabric with a straight stitch at maximum length and then using the thread tails to even out the gathers. I then pressed the gathers to keep them in place. Once I was happy with the adjustments I sewed the side seams of the fake skirt.
I sewed the fake skirt to the hem of the shortened Jersey Dress, right sides together, with a 0.5 cm seam allowance and then finished the seam with my serger. I then folded this hem up on the inside by 2.5 cm so that the 'top' and 'skirt' look like two different garments. I topstitched the neck binding and hem using a double stretch needle and red thread. I used my binding foot to sew the topstitching on the hem so that I could use the guide on it to get a nice straight line.
Final Thoughts: I'm really happy with the finish I achieved on this Sweater with Fake Skirt Dress and it is so comfortable to wear without the discomfort of a skirt waist band.